Hi everyone. I’m Traci Akierman, the designer and creator behind KeLibu. I make patterns, costumes and accessories for 14 to 20 inch dolls. Today I’m going to be sharing with you part 2 of the Steampunk Jetpack series. Last time we prepared our pattern pieces, we prepared our plastic bits and got our leather straps all ready to go. In this video, we are going to be cutting out all our foam pieces and preparing those. And then in Part 3, I’ll be showing you how to assemble the jetpack. Let’s get creating! I would typically cut these on my laser cutter but since I’m guessing most of your don’t have a laser cutter at home, I’m going to show you how I used to do it prior to having a laser cutter. I’m just going to trace around these pieces with my dark marking pen. And you might not be able to see it on camera, but I can see the lines when I am doing my cutting. I’m tracing these parts. I’m going to put them side-by-side so I can do single cuts. Now, I am tracing around them but I am going to be using a straight edge when I make my actual cuts. So if I am not that good at tracing the edges in a straight manner or I haven’t cut these pieces out exactly straight my ruler will help me get a clean edge. And it’s not extremely important for these pieces because they are going to be on the inside so you won’t see them. I’m going to be using my metal ruler to cut against. And before I start cutting with my utility knife, I’m actually going to sharpen it. I love this sharpener. It works really well. And it can really extend the life of your blades so These blades are replaceable, obviously, but if you just give both edges a quick sharpen before you cut your foam, you’d be amazed…It cuts it like butter. So the first cut that I am going to make is going to be along the top here. And I’m going to try and keep my knife straight up and down…perpendicular to the foam. And I’m going to cut past the line here – which is the last piece. And if you just draw it nice and straight through If your knife isn’t quite sharp enough you may need to do a second pass, and that’s ok. Just try and keep it as smooth as possible when you are cutting. If you can start wtih an open edge that’s always better than trying to start a cut in the middle of the foam and go through. Okay, so let’s see how I did. Pretty well. There’s a tiny edge hanging on here. I will just bring my utility knife through that last little remaining little bit And now I’ve got my pieces. So, I’m going to use my leather punch to punch out the holes that this little piece is going to sit in. And I’m going to use my utility knife to carefully cut out this little rectangle that the compass ring is going to sit in. The hole that I am going to be making is 1/2 inch wide so I’m using my 1/2 inch leather punch. And I’m just going to line it up with the mark that I made on the foam. This foam is quite thick so I’m just going to rotate my punch. Give it another few quick taps. Turn it over and I can see that I’ve gone all the way through so I’ll pull that out. And now when I end up lining these pieces up the holes will meet. The next thing to do is cut out this little bit that the compass ring is going to sit in. Now because I have to cut in an enclosed space, – I can’t drag through from an open edge – what I’m going to do is first sharpen my knife a little bit Particularly making sure the point is sharp. And I’m going to grab my straight edge. What I’m going to try to do is start in the middle of this rectangle and draw out to the corner. And the same thing on the bottom edge. And then I’m going to turn it around and draw out from the middle to the other edge. And hopefully I will be able to get this little rectangel cut out. It may take a little bit of finessing because this foam is pretty thick. But the nice thing is, because it’s going to be on the inside of the jetpack if the cut is a little bit rough, it’s not going to matter because you’re not going to see it. It’s going to be covered up by the 2mm foam. There we go. And I’m just going to take my compass ring piece and see if that’s going to fit. And it does. So if it wasn’t going to fit then I would just try and take out a little bit more on that rectangle. Once I get these all cut, these pieces are going to stack up like this with the narrower piece in the middle and the wider pieces on the front and back. The reason that I did that is these jet tubes are going to be sitting against the side and I want to create a concave surface So what I’m going to end up doing is cutting the sides of the front and the back pieces on an angle so that it creates sort of a concave surface for this to sit in. In order to do that, I’m going to have to be very careful that I put my front piece the right way when I’m doing this cut. I want my little nozzle thing to be on this side. So I’m going to flip this over. And I’m going to use my straight edge and go about 1/8 of an inch away from the side. And I’m going to try and do a bit of an angle cut by making my knife angled as I draw the blade along the side. You might have to give it a couple of passes. Again, beacuse this is going on the inside if it’s kind of rough looking, it’s not going to make too much of a difference. So I don’t know if you can see on camera but I’ve just got a bit of a slight edge on this piece now. So I’m going to do that on the other side as well. I’m trying to keep my knife sort of angled as I make this cut. So I’ve got a bit of a bevel on both sides. When I put these together, I’m going to have this right side up so the angle’s going in towards the center. And then for the back side it doesn’t matter what side I have this turned to because there’s no markings on it so… I’m just going to try this again. This might take a bit of practice so don’t worry if you don’t get it the first time. Okay. So now this one’s going to sit like this. with the middle piece and that And as you can see it creates a bit of a concave curve for this tube to sit inside. And again, this is all going to be covered, so it doesn’t doesn’t really matter if it’s a bit rough looking. Now I’m going to set these to the side and we’re going to cut all of our 2 mm foam pieces. For the 2 mm foam pieces, the first step is to cut the pattern pieces out. I have made pattern pieces for these little band straps but as with the leather, my preference is to just cut these strips. I find it’s a bit finicky with the foam to try and trace these. It’s much easier to just cut strips that are the appropriate width and then cut them down to the right sizes. This is the outer piece. It’s going to wrap around those inner pieces that we just cut out. You can see it’s got the hole for the compass ring and the little nozzle. This is going to go around our fluid canister on the front. There’s bands that go around both the jettubes and the main body of the jetpack. And then this is a little grill that I’m going to put on. We also need two strips that are 9 1/2 inches long by 1/8 inch wide. I did not provide a pattern piece for those because I think it would be almost impossible to trace around those. I’m just going to go ahead and cut them using a straight edge and my utility knife. Alright I’m going to cut my strips and the first thing I’m going to do is just give my utility cutter a quick sharpen again. I’m using my clear ruler this time because that way I can make sure that I have the edges all lined up and I’m cutting a consistent width the whole way along my strip. I don’t really like to cut against these because I have nicked them with my knife and cut into them because it is just plastic. It’s easier to get the width right with these than it is with a metal straight edge where I can’t see through. I’m just going to go ahead and cut a couple strips that are 1/4 of an inch wide. And then I will go ahead and cut those 1/8 inch strips. Again, just try and keep your knife as straight up and down as possible. Try not to stop in the middle like I did. I had to work around my camera. I’ve got one strip there. And I can see the sticker peeking through on the back of the foam so I’m just going to take that off. I’m going to take another strip that is 1/4 of an inch wide here. And if you do take the time to sharpen your blade you notice a huge difference in how smoothly it goes through the foam. I’m hardly applying any pressure. And now I’m going to go ahead and cut that 1/8 inch strip which is a bit tricky. Just take your time and do the best you can. If it’s a little bit wiggly in places you’re not going to notice because it’s going around a bunch of stuff. Really, I find we are our own worst critics. The mistakes that we make, we look at them and can see them. And they look like glaring errors but most of the time, other people don’t see those things that we think are so obvious. Handmade is never perfect and that’s part of it’s charm. At least that’s what I tell myself. Alright, I’ve cut my strips down. I’ve got one Bottom Band, and two Top Bands that are cut out of the 1/4 inch wide. And then I’ve cut the two 1/8 inch wide strips that are 9 1/2 inches long each. I can’t go ahead and mark these rivet placements yet because we need to paint these black before I do that. Otherwise it will just be covered up by the paint. So I’m going to set those aside for a moment. And we’re going to cut out our other pieces out of 2 mm foam. Alright. I’m just going to go ahead and trace these pieces onto my 2 mm foam. Now because this foam is quite a bit thinner, you can cut it quite easily with scissors. If you feel more comfortable doing that then go right ahead. Just make sure that you keep your scissor blades perpendicular to the foam when you’re cutting so you don’t get any weird beveled edges. And again, if you are using different sized pieces on your jetpack than the ones I’m using, you’re going to have to make different marks and change up their location if you want. This piece is going to wrap around our inner pieces and I’m going to be placing the seam on the back of the jetpack so that the …that band that I cut out of the 1/4 inch wide foam is actually going to cover up that seam so you don’t see it. The other thing..oh…looks like I did not trace this very well. I’ll use a straight edge on that because my tracing skills while I’m videoing are abysmal. This little piece that I am going to be tracing here is what is going to go around our little green goo canister. That, I’m going to show you how to make. It just uh…helps frame that little piece so that you don’t see any of the raw edges and it kind of makes it look like the canister is set back into the jetpack even though we’re going to be gluing it right on the front. Okay. Yeah I’m not doing the greatest job of tracing these on camera. And then this little guy is going to be a grill feature at top of the jetpack. I’m going to cut this piece out and then I’m actually going to cut a few small pieces of this leftover 1/8 inch wide strip to make it so it looks like it is actually a little grill. The first time I made the jetpack, I tried to just cut little rectangles out of here and and it doesn’t work well. If you are using a laser cutter or an electronic die cutter that you can cut this kind of foam with, the SVG files do have the little rectangle cut outs, rather than having to cut up the strip and apply it later. Oh yes, I’ve made a wonderful job of this. I’m probably just going to have to go back and cut it with my ruler. Sorry guys. It’s really hard to trace these while I’m on camera. The last thing that we’re going to need, which we’re going to cut a little bit later, again from this same leftover strip is we’re going to cut a couple of little bands to go around the goo canister on the top and the bottom. Once we have that built, we’ll measure before we cut these because your canister could end up being a slightly different size. It’s easiest to just measure these around before you cut. Go ahead and cut these pieces out. We’re going to need to paint them once they are done. Once you’ve got your foam pieces all cut out, you need to paint them black. It’s just the 2 mm size foam that you need to paint, not the 6 mm. You can paint them with the spray paint that you used on your plastic bits or you can just use regular acrylic craft paint. Before I attempt to paint this grill, I’m going to just glue the pieces to a little piece of cardstock I’ve cut out that’s just a tiny bit smaller than this main piece here. The reason is, I prefer to spray paint.. and even if I wasn’t spray painting, these little pieces kind of will blow around and then stick to the paint brush and get all squirrely so I’m just going to use a glue stick and glue the frame down first. Then I’ve got these little pieces. This one was cut off of a scrap of the 1/4 inch size strap. Or 1/4 inch size foam strip, rather, that I cut And then the rest of them are cut off of scrap pieces of the 1/8 inch foam strips that I cut. I’m going to just try and make sure this is straight. And my little pieces…my middle piece is looking a little bit small so I think I’m going to cut another scrap piece. Now let’s see if this one is too big or just the right size. Alright. It’s looking pretty good. I think I’m pretty happy with that so I am just going to let this dry for a little bit and then when I paint all of my black pieces, I’ll be able to paint this as one unit and I won’t have all the little bits flying around everywhere. I just wanted to give you a little peek at the grill that I will actually be using. This one I cut on my laser cutter and engraved it so it’s got the little recessed portions there. Just so you guys aren’t wondering why it looks different that the one that I just showed you. If you don’t have a laser cutter, the other method I showed you will work as well for making this little grill. We’re going to make the goo canister. So you’re going to need a piece of plastic that’s fairly flexible but not too thin. You want it to be able to hold its shape when it’s curved but not be so stiff that you can’t bend it. I think I just got this off of a food container lid. And then you’re going to need a piece of cardstock or – this is manilla tag – to make the backing. What we’re going to do is trace around the little pattern pieces first and then cut them out. And then cut out with a pair of scissors. Now I’m going to be covering this piece with some aluminum tape just because I have it on hand and it’s quick and easy. But you can also paint this. You can go white, or black, or paint it silver. Basically, whatever works for you. Go ahead and do that. Now, because we have these little dotted lines on the pattern piece… that’s the place that you need to make the fold. Because this is going to form the back and the top and the bottom of the canister. So, I’m just going to use my ruler. And put it so it’s overhanging this piece by 1/2 an inch. And then I’m just going to crease it. And then I’m going to do the same thing on the other side. When the canister is complete it will sit like that. This will be the top and the bottom. And the next thing I’m going to do is to cut out the plastic piece. You’ll notice on this canister piece there’s also some dotted fold lines. We’re going to do the same thing to this piece as we did with the backing where I’m going to lay the ruler over 1/2 inch. Give that a bend. Crease it a little more tightly. This is where you’ll be able to tell if the plastic you’ve chosen is too thick because it’s going to be really hard to bend it or crease it. Now we’re going to trim these folded parts down. I kept them longer so that it was easier to make these folds. But then it’s going to hang over too much. So I’m going to trim it down to about 3/16’s on each side. Like so. And I’m going to clear some of this stuff out of the way and grab my super glue. Alright, I’ve got my Loctite and I’m actually going to apply it to the back of the canister back piece. Just a line along one side here. Let it set for just a minute so it can get tacky. Alright I’ve let this sit for a minute so I’m going to go ahead and press one of my bent edges to the glue. And try not to glue my thumbs to the back of this… which is a very distinct possibility. Okay. Just gonna give that a little test to make sure it’s in place and it’s not pulling up when I bent this. I’ve applied it to the other side and let it set up for a minute. This side’s a bit trickier because the tension of the plastic is going to fight against you so it might be easier if you lay it flat against your worktable and maybe have something to help push down on the edges to secure it. Just hold it in place there until it sets up. Alright we’ve got both sides secure. Now what we’re going to do is hold it so that that bottom flap is flush against the table and I’m just going to trace around the curve. Like so. And flip it over and do the same thing for the other flap. And then I’m going to trim these up so that I have a nice round cylinder. Like so. So when it’s together you’ve got a top and a bottom to your little goo chamber. So go ahead and heat up your glue gun. We’re going to glue one edge of this closed. And then we’re going to make up our green goo and stick it inside. While I’m waiting for my glue gun to heat up I’m just going to mix my goo. I had originally wanted to use some Mod Podge Gloss. I tried it. I didn’t like it so I’m going back to glue. I’m just using Alene’s tacky glue but you could use any kind of glue that’s going to dry clear. Which this stuff will. You just need a tiny little amount. And I also found that the Pthalo Green was way too deep a green. I want it to be a little bit more neon looking so I’m going to use some Process Yellow, which is also a transparent paint. And I’m actually going to use quite a bit more of the yellow than I am of the Pthalo Green. I’m just going to give it a little hit so it’s a green colour. I’m just using a toothpick to mix it up. If this gets a bit too thick and gloppy for you, you can just add a tiny lit bit of water to thin it out. Just mix a little bit of the green in there. Looks like I got too much. I want it to be even a little bit brighter than that. So I will add a touch more yellow. Alright I’ve got my goo mixed up. I did add a little bit of water to thin it out a bit. My glue gun is hot so I’m just going to run a little bead of glue along this edge. And then hold this closed. You may need to do this a couple of times. Just to seal that up a bit. And then I’m going to take my little paint brush and pop it in there and start painting the goo. You can let some drip and drop if you like. There’s no real right way or wrong way to do this. You just want to make sure that the entire front surface is covered with some green so it looks like the whole chamber is kind of filled up. You can even drop some in there if you want. Just keep painting until you’re happy with it and if you need to wipe some off, you can do that too. Then we’re going to let this dry and we will glue the other side like we did the bottom. Now that my goo canister has had some time to dry I’m just going to glue this top portion with a little run of glue from my glue gun. It’s ok if it doesn’t totally adhere all the way around because we are going to be gluing some other pieces to it. We just want it to stay down. So you don’t have to worry about holding it when you are gluing the others. Now that our canister’s complete, we just need to cut a couple of strips to go around the top and the bottom. We want to put it into the frame that we’ve cut. Using a bit of the leftover 1/8 inch wide strip just measure it around your canister. Mark it with a pen where you need to cut it. And you should just be able to snip it with a pair of scissors. Then just double check to make sure you’ve got the length right. And that’s looking pretty good so I’m just going to cut another one that’s the same size. For the top. Double check it to make sure that it’s going to work. And there we go. So we’ve got those pieces complete. I’m also going to add a little top piece that’s the same size as the top of my canister. The reason that I’m doing that is I want to install an eyelet in there in order to have the fishing line or the weed whacker line coming out of there as a tube. And I don’t want to cut into the top of my goo canister. I am just going to trace around that. Make a cut. I think I’m going to have to cut this down just a bit but let’s test it. It’s a pretty good fit so these will join the pieces that get painted black. We have cut out all of our leather or vinyl straps and punched them in the appropriate spots based on the pattern piece markings. We’ve cut out our 2 mm foam and painted that black in preparation of painting it or putting Rub N Buff on it. We’ve cut our 6 mm foam that’s going to make up our internal structure and cut out all the places that we needed to cut out to put our doodads in. We’ve gathered all of our plastic bits and painted those with a spray paint that’s made to adhere to plastic. We’ve printed and cut out the little steampunk gauge to put into our compass rings. And we’ve gathered our little metal bit – rivets, eyelets, brads, and buckles. Not to mention all of our tools. In Part 3, we’re going to be applying Rub N Buff to the pieces that are going to get Rub N Buff or metallic paint if that’s what you prefer and then we’ll be putting it all together. I hope you enjoyed Part 2 of the steampunk jetpack tutorials. Next time we’re going to be assembling and finishing up our jetpacks. If you enjoyed the video today, please give it a thumbs up and share with your friends. That really helps me get my videos out to a wider audience. Because I split this into three parts, I am going to be posting Part 3 next week so you won’t have to wait for it. Thanks for watching everybody!