Hello fellow modelers, it’s been some time since my last Focke-Wulf model which I made three (3) years ago. Since then, I’ve got from you a lot of support and you have helped me to move the channel to unbelievable numbers. Thus, I want to thank you warmly. The Focke Wulf Fw-190 is my most favourite World War II plane. I think it is time for a new one, and I’ll make it a little bit better. I bought a kit from Eduard in 1/48 scale and a few extra parts with lovely details. The resin engine is nicely detailed and more realistic than the old one which was in the kit and made from plastic. Each part is cast from resin and therefore you must remove the runners, gates, and other excess parts. Okay, I cleaned a few parts. Now I must do the rest. I use a small hobby saw for large and less fragile parts, but don’t worry. I will also use a few plastic parts from the kit. I cut them out from the sprue with sharp sidecutters. In the kit, there are photo-etched, pre-coloured parts, but they look very flat, and therefore I use plastic parts from the kit instead. Now, a little bit of fun. I mark parts that I must remove with a black highlighter (marker). I think it is more like a surgery. I use micro milling cutters for a small electric drill and tools like a razor saw, sharp hobby knife and nail files. I cleaned the plastic dust and imperfections with super thin glue. Now, I only need to glue resin parts into the right place. Okay, it will not be so easy. Most importantly, we have to reduce the plastic wing to minimal thickness. Otherwise, it will not be possible to insert the extra resin parts. Now, I assemble the landing flaps from photo-etched parts. It is, after the engine, a pronounced detail. However, it is on the bottom side of the plane, so no one will see the details. Sometimes, it can be tricky to bend long, thin metal parts to the right shape without damaging it. Therefore, I use a special bending tool for this purpose. This way, I created a very clean and right-angled bend. I use for gluing metal parts ordinary super glue. Okay, that was the easy part. Now, I must glue the landing flaps to the wings. However, first I must again reduce the thickness of the plastic significantly. I use a sharp round blade, or a file. I do not use my milling cutters this time, because you can easily damage the upper side of the wing with heat from friction. This is the result. The plastic is almost transparent. And as usual, I glue metal parts with a super thin (super) glue. It still does not fit perfectly, so I must also remove some plastic from the upper side of the wing. Now I make something similar with the wheel well doors. In the kit, they are included of course but they are in plastic and are quite thick. So, let’s paint something finally! I start with the cockpit. I spray Aluminium colour and then chipping varnish. I can paint cockpit grey colour when varnish is dry. I use different shades of acrylic colour to make artificial shades and highlights. Now, I can make nice scratches with a toothpick and water. Actually, I do not need to paint all the details, because I use waterslide decals. The engine section is the most detailed part of the model, and it has almost the same number of parts as the whole kit. I glue the resin (parts) together with a super glue. It is important to spray a very thin layer of colour because otherwise you might obscure the tiny details. I spray the whole engine section with a silver Super Metallic colour which is very resilient, So we don’t need to protect the result with clear varnish. I then apply a dark enamel wash. As you can see, it makes all the small details more pronounced. I paint all the small details with a silver colour, and a drybrush technique. I simply apply a small amount of colour on the top of the brush. The disadvantage of many a lot of holes in the wings, is that you must create the internal structure afterward. I use for this purpose plastic card and lead wires. Then, almost nothing is invisible, but I feel good because I made [the details]. Because I opened the side panels, I must make the [internal structure] of the fuselage. I use lead wires and copper wires for control wires. The details will be hardly visible in the end. I cover gaps with a putty for plastic, and then clean the excess putty with ordinary smooth sandpaper. Of course, I rescribe the filled panel lines. Now the model is ready for painting. Therefore, I clean the dust from the model with soapy water and now I can spray grey primer and let it dry properly for a few hours. Meanwhile, I can paint other small details. Okay, back to the main painting. I spray pre-shading with a black acrylic colour. The main reason for this technique is to make the surface less uniform and highlight details. I spray the underside with a light blue colour. I dilute the colour with thinner in the ratio of 1:1, and I use the airbrush, a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity with a 0.15 mm nozzle and air pressure of 25 psi. I don’t have the precise grey colour for the camouflage scheme, therefore I mix it from two (2) colours. I make the same for the green. The lighter shade is for highlights, which I spray after the base green layer. Planes usually have a dull flat surface. However, you can easily make it less uniform and more interesting with different shades. Also, the wings on the original aircraft are stressed with high-g [maneuvers] and weathering so the surface is not entirely consistent. Also the colour on the real plane was removed by daily use or during maintenance, and therefore was very easily abraded to the base aluminium. I use the same technique with the chipping varnish like in the cockpit. So now I can create nice scratches with water and a toothpick. I mask the already painted areas with yellow masking tape and spray details with RLM02. The paintjob is finished. I protect the result with a clear lacquer varnish. I use clear varnish because it gives a good base for the waterslide decals, which are also printed on clear varnish. I paint small details, like the MG 17 cannon with acrylic colours made for brushpainting. I apply a dark brown wash. The engine section is usually very dirty, with leaks, from oil, smoke and dust. I have a lot of details from extra parts, but some are missing. Therefore, I modified engine covers from the kit and created the internal structure from plastic card. Now even with the existence of weathering products, I still think the best is ordinary oil paint. The Fw-190 has very fragile landing gear. Therefore I recommend gluing the landing gear with super glue. It will make a stronger bond and won’t melt the plastic like ordinary [plastic cement]. So, decals. I also used these decals three (3) years ago. I know, it seems like an ordinary decal sheet, but you can remove a clear film from it. Czech company HGW Models makes them. The application is straightforward and are the same as ordinary decals, as you already know. I put the decals into water and the transfer them to the surface and apply decal softener. Now, I remove bubbles and softener with a paper napkin. And now, the magic! After a few hours, you can remove the excess film from the decal. In the end, I clean the excess film with water. Now, I can finally paint the weathering. First, I apply a wash. You can apply it to the panel lines, but the surface has nice rivets, so I apply it on the entire surface. After a few minutes, I wipe away the excess wash with a dry paper napkin. It is important to cover the model in a clear lacquer varnish. Otherwise it can be tricky to clean the [wash] properly. I like this ‘White 11’ marking because it has a nice chessboard on the engine cover. I glue all covers and details with super glue. Therefore, I can fix parts on the colour. Also, almost all [parts] are made from resin, so glue for plastic does not work here. I unify the surface with a flat clear varnish. It is a much better base for shading with oil paints. I paint heat stains from exhaust pipes with a beige colour and oil paint. As usual, I paint artificial shading on the whole plane with oil paints. The most realistic seatbelts are from this superdetail set. However, assembly requires a little bit of patience. And like on the original picture of ‘White 11’, I put one seatbelt out of the cockpit. It is a lovely detail. The engine section is still quite empty, so I put more wires from lead wire. And I cannot forget the wire for the landing gear brakes, and tons of other details which I still must do. With these steps, the model is finished. I also made a diorama for this model, with a lot of details and a few miniatures. However, it will be in a separate video, how I made it. I wish you all the best in your 2019, and I’m looking forward to more upcoming projects. Thank you for watching and see you next time! Here is the finished model.